I learned of this town last year and wanted to move there right away. It receives a lot of sun and is in a coastal environment. A major port with an adjacent river, it is next to an airport and is an hour from a big city. Architects paid a lot of attention to detail and the town also has terrific art, public and private. I fell in love with it after googling photos! Before last year, I’d never even heard of it and only learned of it after reading Lavinia, by Ursula K. LeGuin. An area next to it is really hopping, a tourist hot spot called Lido di Ostia. Both places are along the Tyrrhenian coast. I prefer my Ostia, though. My town is perfectly laid out on a grid and has lovely cobbled streets. Its apartments have many windows are there are shops on the ground floor, so there is privacy and convenience. The town is beautiful, a model town.
I would so love to wake up in the morning, make a cup of coffee, then take it along, as I go for a stroll in the sun. Warm terra cotta glow from the sun on the bricks, long shadows would be cast across streets, just like in a de Chirico painting. I can nearly taste the place. I’m afraid it’s just pipe dream, though…. I have lived many places and it’s not like me to not move somewhere I really want to go. But, there are no for rent signs and nothing’s for sale; my Ostia isn’t available to me or anyone else. I mentioned that the neighboring area is called Ostia but, you see, my town is now called Ostia Antica
because the last person moved out in 414 CE. The frescoes and mosaics and apartments that are in such good condition were built by the Romans in the 4th Century BCE and these apartments are the first such domiciles built in antiquity. Ostia was Rome’s major harbour, located at the mouth of the Tiber River. It’s said the town has roots that date to the 6th Century BCE. The reason the buildings are in such excellent condition, given their age is because they are made of concrete with brick facings. It was a gorgeous town with every amenity and the architects designed attractive edifices on all the buildings, even warehouses. There is a definite modern feel about the place. When I do go there I’d like to stay at this hotel, right in Ostia, so I wouldn’t have to travel back and forth from Rome. That way, I could have a cup of coffee and my morning stroll and it wouldn’t be a pipe dream… Emperors, officials, merchants, and the wealthy left and arrived at the port of Ostia and the town was adorned in a manner the Romans thought befitted a town that attracted such august visitors. It had the inevitable
theatre, taverns, snack bars, temples, and baths, brothels, in addition to warehouses and wharves. Even the warehouses were appealing to the eye. Every care was given to the look of the place. “Most of what is visible at Ostia is a development of the Flavian, Antonine, and Severan periods,” according to Ostia – Roman, insulae, collēgia“>this article. “The uniformity of the kiln‐fired brick construction and the regularity of the plan suggest wholesale redevelopment, and large‐scale investment in urban property.” Archaeologist David Noy is commenting on a scientific study of Ostia by Dr. Janet DeLaine, archaeology lecturer at Oxford University, from her 2002 article, “Building activity in Ostia in the 2nd century AD.” He states that “analysis of building techniques and brickstamps can yield unexpectedly detailed information about
the dating of buildings and about how Ostian builders worked.” Noy said DeLaine’s work shows that a “‘signature motif’ of one contractor…can be found in buildings elsewhere in Ostia.” Further, “some of these buildings use different materials, suggesting that it was the patron not the contractor who was responsible for providing or at least sourcing these. Noy said DeLaine “calculates that each of the buildings could have been built by a contractor with eight to ten men and about the same number of day labourers in a period of between two and five years, and she is thus able to reconstruct the unknown contractor’s activities over several decades.” This source is so fantastic! Continuing to comment on DeLaine’s work, Noy addressed her treatment of brick stamps, saying “the range of brickstamps found in some public buildings such as the Forum Baths suggests that the sources of bricks were closely related to the patron’s personal contacts; her assumption seems to be that obtaining sufficient bricks for a project was potentially problematic.” He finishes by saying that “Although the evidence used is very specialized, the conclusions are potentially wide-ranging for the
understanding of business and employment in early second-century Ostia.” Superb! Not only does this information bring history to life, it sheds light on the inner workings of something that is usually behind the scenes. All through this period, the town was subject to invasion and theft by pirates. After the town was sacked by pirates in 68 BCE, Pompey enacted a law that enabled him to draft an army for the purpose of wiping them out, which he did. Life and trade carried on, after that, except for the fact that the Tiber River had a silt problem in the, making it possible for only shallow boats to make the excursion to Rome. The very word ostia means opening, but soon the opening to the Tiber was hobbled by the inability to navigate the waters there. Considering exports and imports, the situation became so untenable, that Claudius had a new harbor built, calling it Portus. It was completed by Trajan in 113 BCE. This meant that traffic now flowed away from Ostia and that this new deep water harbor was used. Ostia was not forgotten, however. After a time, it became a haven for rich Romans. Still, the town was in a state of
slow decay and, after a fashion, was isolated and pretty much forgotten. If I were to have seen it during that time, I don’t know whether I would have even been able to recognize its charm. But, believe it or not, if it hadn’t been for Italy’s dictator, Benito Mussolini, and his strategy of associating himself and his rule with the glories of ancient Rome, Ostia would never have experienced rebirth. Because of his campaign, about 3/4 of the town site is visible today. Many of his actions were closely linked his belief that by spotlighting ancient Rome, he himself would be elevated. Supposedly in honor of the deified Tiber River, he had a Roman column placed alongside the it. Its inscription reads QUI NASCE IL FIUME SACRO AI DESTINI DI ROMA (“Here is born the river / sacred to the destinies of Rome”) and a Roman eagle is perched on top, symbol of the Senate and the Roman people. This was all propaganda. Daniel Neuman, in 2006 wrote, “Ostia Antica was the port city and virtual lifeblood for Rome at the delta of the Tiber.” He further explained that “connecting Ostia to EUR and Rome was a pinnacle accomplishment for Mussolini. It was under
his reign that Ostia took on new significance and excavations were reenergized with great zeal.” Neuman makes further assertions about Mussolini and Ostia in this same article, called Mussolini: Power, Propaganda and the Revival of the Roman Empire. “This was all part of Mussolini’s plan to create scholarship and national interest in the Ancients,” he writes. “Always close to his heart, though, were the ulterior motives of preaching the Fascist doctrine simultaneously. The importance of uncovering the hidden treasures of Ostia was to emphasize the great culture and heritage of the Ancients, which the Italian people now have the responsibility to carry on.” However misguided Mussolini’s intentions were, today we have Ostia, restored. A huge preservation effort continues to the present. The concrete used to build it ensured its survival and the brick facades make these structures beautiful. It still needs help, though, as preservation efforts must be kept up. If you’d like to visit Ostia, here is a guide that will help you. This blog will tell you what it’s like to take a day trip there from Rome. It’s still February, so I’m closing the story with this lovely shot of the Temple of Cupid and Psyche in Ostia.